Monkey Business, Gibraltar

After leaving the festival in Malaga, I hopped along the coast to Gibraltar. If you don’t know, Gibraltar is a small peninsula extending from the southern Spanish coast into the Mediterranean Sea. The entrance to the Mediterranean from the Atlantic is known as the Strait of Gibraltar. Gibraltar is known for the enormous rock that makes up 90 percent of its land mass.

Since the ancient Greeks, Gibraltar has been a point of interest. In Greek mythology, Gibraltar was considered one of the Pillars of Hercules and thought to be the end of Earth. A tremendous cavern was discovered in the rock that can be traced throughout ancient history. The Greeks also thought this to be the entrance to Hades.

The rock has played important roles throughout history. Special operations were underway during WWII to prepare for German occupation. The Rock of Gibraltar has hundreds of miles of tunnels dug into it for storage, escape and defense. The tunnels were dug initially for defense against Spanish troops trying to take back control of the rock but also became even more extensive during WWII. Gibraltar is under British authority and has been since the early 1700′s.

Maybe even more interesting than the historical significance of Gibraltar is the special population of monkeys, Barbary Macaques. These monkeys are native to the North African Barbary nations, thought to come over during Moorish occupation in the 8th century. The monkeys reside on top of the rock within the boundaries of a nature reserve. However, these guys are completely wild and completely free. There are no cages or solid boundaries separating them from tourists. So you can imagine my initial shock when walking off the lift at the top of the rock and find monkeys literally hanging around. There are many warning signs as you approach the top concerning the monkeys. You are not to touch the monkeys or feed the monkeys; you are advised not to have open food when you are around the monkeys, nor plastic bags. Apparently these monkeys are known to be thieves.

I had a close encounter with one of these monkeys. After hearing numerous warnings that the monkeys will steal your food, I thought it was just a precaution in case something did happen, the workers could say, “I told you so.” I had just finished touring the cavern and saw a snack stand that sold Magnum ice cream bars. Now, if you’ve never had one of these, you are missing a small piece of heaven on earth. They are delicious. The day was hot so I figured it would be a good time to eat one. As I’m purchasing this bar, the lady said, “Be careful around the monkeys!” I hadn’t seen any monkeys around so I thought it would be no problem. With great earnest I opened the ice cream bar anticipating that first bite and it did not disappoint. Casually I walk out of the small cafe to enjoy my ice cream. I get three bites when I notice a plaque on the rock explaining more interesting facts concerning the cave. As I read the information, I feel a thud on my shoulder and suddenly my ice cream bar is gone! I look up and sure enough one of these crazy monkeys had stolen my ice cream and was perched on top of the roof gobbling it down! At least I got a good story out of it and he enjoyed a great ice cream bar

Feria de Malaga

After leaving Granada, I wanted another unique Spanish experience and discovered the Feria de Malaga. This festival is held every year and no expense spared. The streets are packed with people from 1pm until the wee hours of morning. There are fireworks, street dancers, bands, bullfights, and endless vendors selling your imagination. I arrived at the end of the week as with few days left in the festival. However, it was still kicking strong when I arrived.

I must admit that my biggest interest in this festival was bullfighting. I’ve always had a romantic idea concerning bullfighting, I guess from reading too much Ernest Hemingway, but I knew it was an experience I couldn’t miss. I had no idea what to expect but the buildup was somewhat similar to a college football Saturday. The intensity inside the arena was much the same as well. Plenty of oohs and ahhs, cheers and boos, unlike a football game, this event also contained plenty of blood, violence and death. The bull is softened by the initial entrance and by what I equate to rodeo clowns running him around the ring. Then the torero(matador) enters with his red cape and sword. Now understand this is not considered a competition but an art form and the matador is praised for his ability to kill the bull swiftness and flair. He will perform a series of oles until he gets a feel for the bulls charge. Finally, he will drive the sword between the bull’s shoulder blades this should instantly kill the bull if performed correctly. However, if it is not a swift kill the crowd will certainly let the matador know. I only saw one man booed from the arena because it was a poor kill, the rest were done well enough to obtain standing ovations. It was a spectacle that is rich and deep in Spanish tradition, a tradition of the common man and nobility alike. I found it very interesting and entertaining.

Valencia and Granada

After Barcelona, I took a trip to Valencia in order to meet up with some friends. I spent a couple of days on the beach in Valencia before I met my friends who drove us to Moraira. Moraira is a local vacation spot for residents of Valencia and the surrounding area. Its a picturesque site with beautiful homes scattered across hill sides sloping down the Mediterranean. The weekend was perfect. We spent time lounging on the beach, playing basketball, eating paella and snorkeling. After a party on the beach Saturday night, we took to the coral reefs. The water was crystal clear, warm, and filled with beautiful marine life…among other things. We saw many Mediterranean specialty fish as well as poke and prod an octopus. Also, we had the misfortune of swimming upon a nude beach(and I do mean it was unfortunate) however, we had a great time and was a great ending to a beautiful weekend in Valencia.
(Sorry no pictures of this trip. I have some from my phone I will try to upload later.)

The next stop on my tour of Spain was Granada. Granada is a very special place. It has a unique mix of Moorish-Spanish culture. In case you are wondering, the Moors were North African Islamic cultures that invaded Spain between the 8th century until the end of the 15th century, 1492 to be exact and I know that date should ring a bell. Anyway, Granada was the last remaining Moorish kingdom in Spain with Ferdinand and Isabella took over ending the Reconquista. Everywhere you walk in Granada there are remnants of this culture still very visible and alive. The most important of these is the Alhambra. This fortress housed the Muslim Emirs, kings. It’s a spectacular structure and one of the best preserved Islamic sites in the western world.

Aside from the sites, I really had a good time with the food in Granada. One can never go wrong with a 4euro dinner consisting of wine and endless tapas. The tapas bars of Granada are the best I experienced in Spain. Mainly this is because it was cheap but the atmosphere was unmatched, people friendly and gracious with strong, unique culture.

Culturally speaking, Granada takes the cake. There may be better elsewhere but I haven’t found it. One exciting thing I witnessed in Granada was a flamenco bar. Now, don’t get this confused with scantly dressed women and big feathers. The flamenco jazz clubs of Granada are special. I read an article about a particular flamenco bar that was a favorite of the local crowd, meaning authentic. I knew this was the place to see a show, I actually stayed an extra night in Granada just to be able to see it. I showed up a little early and was ushered into a small cavern beneath the bar with a maximum capacity crowd. As the musicians walked down, the crowd erupted in applause and cheers. The two man band played a couple of songs before introducing themselves and the program for the night. At this time, the lights dimmed, the crowd hushed as the stunningly beautiful flamenco dancer made her way to the front. The energy was high while everyone waited, anticipating the first movements. We were not disappointed.

If you ever find yourself in Granada, do not miss the La Chien Andalou flamenco show!

Barcelona and Gaudi

Barcelona is one of the most interesting and exciting cities I’ve visited. The food is incredible, sites are interesting, and the people are sincere. The main thoroughfare is called Las Ramblas. Walking Las Ramblas during the day one can see the artists, street performers, sidewalk vendors all providing a spectacle of Spanish culture. Stopping along Las Ramblas you can enjoy the sidewalk cafes to people watch or indulge in a traditional tapas menu. As interesting as this street is during the day, at night it transforms into something different. It becomes a world of music and dance with full cafes and people packing the streets until the wee hours. As much fun as Las Ramblas is, if you want to experience real Spanish cuisine and tapas one only has to venture a couple of side streets over into the Gothic Quarter. Great,cheap tapas bars and cafes line the streets here.

As for Barcelona’s sights, there are many interesting and worthwhile. However, Gaudi’s architecture is by far the most interesting. I had the opportunity to visit both La Sagrada Familia and Park Guell. I read an article last year about Gaudi’s La Sagrada Familia basilica that sparked my interest. The detail and intricacy of his design are fascinating. I think even more is the innovation. The late 19th century is not known for spectacular architecture, however, Gaudi stands apart as an innovator and modern beyond his time. La Sagrada Familia construction began in 1882. Gaudi died, however, before the cathedral could be completed. He knew that he would not see the end of the project and intended for others to leave their mark as well.

The Park Guell, Gaudi’s other famous contribution to Barcelona, was initially intended as a luxury housing complex but serves as a park and museum today. I cannot justly describe the architecture here. The unusual methods used by Gaudi, evident here and with the basilica, are truly original and spectacular. Below are pictures of the two sites I’ve mentioned. You can find more pictures of all my visits via my Picasa uploads. There is a link on the sidebar of my blog, just click and you can see all pictures from all my trips so far.

Updated Travels

After leaving Venice ten days ago, I have made several stops to get me here in Malaga, Spain.  I traveled through Milan, Turin, and Genoa, Italy, taking a train from Genoa to Barcelona, Spain.  After several days in Barcelona, I moved to Valencia and Moraira, Spain, for a weekend.  I have just recently left Granada after two days exploring the ancient Moorish ruins and now find myself in Malaga for Feria de Malaga(or Feria de Agosto).  I’m looking forward to some good tapas, flamenco dancers, and hopefully a bullfight or two! 

As for now, I will update my blog with a series of posts detailing the travels I mentioned.  First I will post a few pictures of Milan, Turin and Genoa.  These were all short stays mainly to catch desired trains.  My experience in Milan was brief however, I was very impressed with the Duomo in Milan’s historical city center.  This must be one of the more simple and beautiful cathedrals I’ve seen in my travels.  It doesn’t boast as impressive architecture as others, nonetheless, it’s simplicity is beautiful.

Following Milan, I arrived in Turin late at night and only stayed long enough to sleep, do laundry, then catch a train to Genoa. Genoa is a place I’ve wanted to visit after hearing from many people that it is warm and beautiful.  I spent a night Genoa, finding it to be everything I had heard. 

One interesting part of Genoa is the tropical forest encased in a glass dome right in port.  From a distance, it looks similar to Epcot at Disney, however, as you get closer the plants become visible.  I was hesitant to pay the 5euro entrance fee but I’m actually glad I did.  The Genoese have created a tropical rainforest amidst a concrete jungle.  As you walk along the path, you can witness tropical birds, reptiles and plants seen only in places like the Amazon.  It was quite interesting and well worth the visit if you are ever able.

 

In Genoa, I had a long journey ahead with only a brief stop in Nice, France for relief.  Nice was only for sleep before the 11 hour train journey to Barcelona.  The ride was broken into several stops making it bearable.  However, it was all worth it.  Barcelona is truly one of the great cities in Europe and for a large city, it’s second only to Paris.  Indeed Barcelona reminds me a lot of Paris.  More to come later

Travel experiences

I left Venice this past Monday afternoon and seven different trains, eight hundred miles and five days later, I’ve arrived in Barcelona. Its been quite the adventure. I have learned alot about how to and how not to travel by train in Europe. Also, that one should always expect the unexpected when train hopping across Europe. However, I made my destination and was overall a nice trip. Especially, the train ride from Genoa to Nice and Nice to Barcelona. I chose routes particularly because they traveled along the coast, even though they added a few hours to my trip. The view was worth it. If you ever decide to travel by train near these destinations, I highly recommend the scenic route, and be sure to take a window seat!

Out of all my travels, I think the most fun I had was on an overnight ferry ride between Dubrovnik, Croatia, and Bari, Italy. Its a very relaxing and communal adventure. When you purchase a ticket on this ferry, you have options of a cabin with a bed, a cabin with four beds, a reclining seat, or just a deck seat. Now the deck seat is obviously the most economical way to go but its by far the most adventurous, I chose the deck. With a deck seat ticket, you can sleep on any number of coaches, chairs, or just roll a blanket/sleeping bag on the floor. Some even chose to sleep outside under the stars! If you are looking for an adventure, this is the way to go. I met many people from all over the Mediterranean and had some very interesting conversations. On the return journey, I sat on the top deck, which included an outdoor bar/cafe. Normally this area is taken over by backpackers listening to popular music blaring through the speakers and sipping wine or a beer. However this evening, a group of middle aged to elder Italians took over the show. A man brought his guitar and proceeded to play old Italian folk songs for hours! All who had the opportunity to witness this were immediately enraptured by the group and forced to tap your foot or clap your hands. I sat with two older Italian women who tried to teach me the songs but gave up since I knew zero Italian. However I did get a couple of videos of this as well as pictures on board. Enjoy…

More Venice

One surprise enjoyment in Venice was the music. I got to experience a wide range of music from classic orchestra to Sting and Macy Gray.

The first night I arrived in Venice, I walked around San Marco square listening to the small orchestra bands playing music from the Sound of Music as well as modern day pop songs. The groups were dueling, playing one after the other, and none were disappointing. The next night, I decided to walk back to San Marco and see if there were any new bands playing. And to my surprise, the square was packed with people listening to Sting! I guess I missed that memo. So, considering the luck I had with the square, I decided to check it out once again. As I walked into the square I saw a crowd of people standing in front of a cafe door. As I walked closer, I could hear an amazing voice pouring out of the tiny cafe. I sat and listened to a girl sing blues, r&b, rock, and pop songs all night. I knew she looked incredibly familiar but had no idea who she was, found out the next day it was Macy Gray. To sum up, my time in Venice was marked by great music!

Here are some videos:

Venice, Italy

I haven’t had great internet service the past week therefore I’ve missed posting pictures and details of my Venice trip.

Venice is a magnificent city. The canal streets are very special places day or night. I love everything about Venice. From her history as an outcast city and seafaring empire, Venice has always been different. Venetians are different from mainland Italians and Venetians vary depending on what island you’re on. Even 400 years ago, Venice was recognized for her status as a tourist attraction. Everyone wanted to see the grandeur that is Venice. Venice is home to one of the most beautiful squares in all Europe, San Marco. The square boasts a cathedral and palace built solely out of plunder from conquests, who couldn’t love Venice?! Also at night, you can enjoy the sounds of small orchestras playing until the wee hours of morning. Today Venice still holds on to a majestic, romantic past and thrives off it.

If you visit Venice during the height of tourist season, be prepared to smother and swelter with throngs of people invading the main thorough fares. However, if you find yourself among the crowds, just turn down a side street where no one is walking, Then, take another vacant side street. Maybe if you’re lucky, you’ll find one more empty street to turn down. Once you done this and are officially lost, congratulate yourself and witness the real Venice. Walk for hours along peaceful, serene canals with only a few locals cruising down the canal in a row boat. To really get a taste for Venice, get lost and leave the crowds. Its still important to see the main sights and attractions while there. One big attraction is to eat a nice dinner along the canal at twilight. Well, for me(as I’m traveling along) the most pleasant meal I had was to buy something for take away, pay 1/3 of the price and find an empty street along the canal to eat. But that’s if you’re traveling by budget. I did enjoy many meals and cafes along the canal with everyone else but you really must escape the crowds to experience this city.

You can see many views of Venice here. In one the cathedral built from plunder, another you can see the world’s first digital clock, many views of the canal and gondolas, as well as a Venice fire exit!

Venice at night

Venice at night is a beauty to behold.  I love being by/on the water and in Venice you are always on the water. Here are a few pictures of this beautiful city in her full splendor. These are phone pictures so the quality is poor.

Dubrovnik cont’d

I failed to mention a very cool place inside the city walls of Dubrovnik. A cafe/bar has been built into the city walls overlooking the cliffs and blue water of the Adriatic. Its a very peaceful place with maybe the best view in all of Dubrovnik. A very relaxed atmosphere is set by the waiters and they play easy music to enjoy a drink with. Whether you go for coffee, a coke, or a beer, this is the place to end a long day of touring. The name is Buza Bar but you will never see a sign pointing to this bar. As you walk through the Old City and head west beneath the walls, you will eventually see a wooden sign pointing towards COLD DRINKS. After a hot, summer day in Croatia, that will be enticing enough. Its not easy to find but well worth it once you do. There is a terrace below the bar where you can sunbathe, swim, or cliff jump if that interests you.